![]() P3 armour wash is black with a touch of blue & brown and I use it for this purpose, but could easily mix my own using regular black/blue/brown washes. For example, black is great for metallics, but mix a touch of blue into the black wash and it gives it a slighlty different tone that really suits something like, say, a medieval knight's armour. are more specialised, and can either be used to darken the recesses of lighter shades of the same colour without giving the 'muddy' brown look to the model, or can be added to other washes to tint the colour. With a neatish basecoat, this would give you something at table top standard even without a single highlight. Then go back and wash the metallics with black. Typically, metals would be black/dark tone, brown/strong tone for clothing & skin, and reddish brown/soft tone to give a warmer brown (and also my favourite way to paint gold - light silver with a heavy wash of soft tone).ĭevlan mud/brown/strong tone is a lot of people's go-to wash, especially unarmoured models - lay down the base coat, wash heavily all non-metallics in brown, and then add highlights if you desire. There's no easy answer as to what you should use. If you need to message the modteam or discuss something about the subreddit, please message us through modmail here.ĭark Tone, Soft Tone, and Strong Tone from Army Painter are a match to the old Citadel washes that lots of folks love - Devlan Mud (brown - Strong Tone in AP), Gryphonne Sepia (reddish brown - Soft Tone in AP), and Badab Black (black - Dark Tone in AP). Please do not send direct messages or chat requests to moderators. Mark nude minis and extreme gore as NSFW. Identify your minis in the title or a comment. Painters of all skill levels are welcome! From beginners who have never held a brush to pros who have been painting for years. Everything from tabletop wargames to board games, display pieces or just for fun! This is (as far as I know) how this tool works.A community for painting miniatures and models. Ideal for adding extra shading, touching up mistakes and for washing the whole of the model.18ml The Army Painter Fenris Workshop Army Painter Warpaints Quickshade Green Tone Ink Acrylic Paints This Quickshade Wash is a perfect match of the Quickshade of the same name. As I said before, this plus a last bit of paint to bring the colors up to their original brightness would be a fine miniature. As a neutral party, I'd say that'd be bad. If you just want deep shadow darkening, you want a something mixed with a flow release to break surface tension and cause flow into cracks. It's a tool, and like any new tool one uses, it requires a period of adjustment and a change in behavior to accommodate it. Because it looks to me that it did flow into the crevices and deeper areas, it just didn't ignore the rest. Bringing the parts you want brighter back up to their original color is just part of the product, as far as I'm concerned. More in the deeper areas, but everything gets a tint. Quickshade quickly shades (darkens and tints) the mini. Same for every other part.Īrmy Painter does exactly what they say. ![]() A few strokes of, say, the base feather color (I'm assuming some kind of ivory?) on the raised feathers will make the whole thing pop. So I'm assuming this is the paint can looking stuff, yes? I haven't used it, but at least for my use of Army Painter products (their bottled washes are a godsend), you don't get great results without some paint atop the shade. ![]() ![]() If you need to message the modteam or discuss something about the subreddit, please message us through modmail here. A community for painting miniatures and models.
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